Saddle & Tack Fit
Saddles
One of the biggest contributing factors of back
problems are ill fitting saddles. Saddles are often fitted to the
existing topline without consideration of possible future changes
that will come when the horse is more developed. Saddles should
ideally be fitted to the width that a horse can possibly achieve
when fully developed and shims should be used in the meantime to
compensate for any differences. Please note that it is common for
saddles to fit closer to the shoulder of the horse's dominant side,
because that shoulder is stronger and therefore generally has more
muscle development.
The panels also need to fit the shape of the
horse's back. If they do not conform well to the horse's back, the
saddle will be unstable, side to side or front to back or both. In
addition, it is generally better to have a wider gullet rather than
one that's too narrow to allow for good bending in the ribcage.
Not observing those general guidelines will make
saddle fitting a very frustrating and often expensive endeavor.
Treeless saddles can be a great alternative to
treed saddles. Generally horses seem to prefer a treeless saddle,
but they often do not provide the same kind of support to riders as
treed saddles do, which is generally related to the twist. Treeless
saddles however often put the riders in a more correct position, due
to stirrup bar attachments that are more placed under the rider,
allowing the rider's leg to be in a more naturally correct alignment
with the rest of the body, which makes sitting in the correct
position more effortless.
I myself own a treeless saddle and my horse
clearly prefers it over the treed one we had. Many riders are
concerned that the treeless saddle might eventually cause back
problems but from all the research that I have done, I have yet to
find this to be a consistent problem, even after years of extensive
use. Most back problems in horses appear to be caused by badly
fitted treed saddles. The Litmus test? If a horse shows resistance
under the saddle but seems fine with a bareback pad (or treeless
saddle), chances are the saddle is the culprit.
Correct saddle fit for the rider is also essential
but often overlooked because we put so much emphasis on fitting the
saddle correctly to the horse. Saddle fit for the rider is just as
important to ensure correct body alignment. The saddle should
naturally support the rider as best as possible so the rider does
not have to constantly work on keeping a correct position. Again,
that can only be counter-productive to riding and training.
Check out the following sources for more
information on correct saddle fit, for horse and
rider:
Saddle Fitting
Check for Back Pain and Saddle Fit
The Horse's Pain-Free Back and Saddle-Fit Book
Bits & Other Tack
It is equally important that the bit is fitted to
the horse's oral cavity, Bigger isn't always milder and better. Some
horses have very little room in their mouths and need a smaller
diameter bit. Consult with your equine dentist which bit size would
be appropriate for you horse.
In addition, some horse prefer certain bit styles
over others. Again, this is probably related mostly to the
conformation of the oral cavity, but can also be related to the
rider's hands. Loose ring snaffles for example transmit more of the
rider's hand movement and some sensitive horses might therefore
prefer a d-ring or eggbutt snaffle.
Bits should be mild - harsh bits should be
avoided. It is a fallacy to believe that one could stop or control a
horse by simply using a harsher bit. Only correct training can
achieve that. Cavesons and flashes should also not be over tightened
when used. The following book is an excellent resource on correctly
selecting and using bits (snaffles or curb/shank):
The Bit and the Reins
Also keep in mind that some horses react to
certain materials that are used in tack. Some are obvious, others
are not quite so obvious. Neoprene is a good example. Some horse's
can react rather badly to it with serious skin rashes. In other
cases the signs are more subtle. My horse would always fidget when I
put his neoprene galloping boots on. No amount of slapping or
yelling made him stop.
Then I came across some information that neoprene
can overheat the skin of more sensitive horses , or even worse, can
cause damage to the skin. That made me decide to buy and try some
boots with fleece lining instead. After using them once the
fidgeting completely stopped. He was just trying to communicate to
me that the neoprene boots made him feel uncomfortable. Then I felt
bad that I had even argued with him about it. He had a similar,
quite obvious reaction, when I used a neoprene girth once to try out
a new saddle. As soon as the girth came off he behaved like he was
itching very badly in the girth area and needed immediate itch
relieve. Always listen to your horse - he might just be trying
to tell you something and they deserve to be heard!
