Tack Fit
Saddles
One of the biggest contributing factors of back
problems are ill fitting saddles. Not only are saddles fitted to a
stationary horse, they are also
generally fitted to the
existing topline without consideration of possible future muscle
development changes
that will come with training.
Saddles should be fitted to the width that a horse can possibly achieve
when fully developed and shims should be used in the meantime to
compensate for any differences. Please note that it is common for
saddles to fit closer to the shoulder of the horse's dominant side.
That shoulder is used more and therefore has generally more
muscle development.
The panels also need to fit the shape of the
horse's back. If they do not conform well to the horse's back, the
saddle will be unstable, side to side or front to back or both. In
addition, it is generally better to have a wider gullet rather than
one that's too narrow to allow for good bending in the ribcage.
Not observing those general guidelines will make
saddle fitting a very frustrating and often expensive endeavor.
Treeless Saddles
Treeless saddles can be a great alternative to
treed saddles. Horses seem to prefer a treeless saddle,
but they often do not provide the same kind of support to riders as
treed saddles do, which is generally related to the twist. Treeless
saddles tend to put the riders in a more correct position, due
to stirrup bar attachments that are placed more under the rider,
allowing the rider's leg to hang more in a naturally correct alignment, which makes sitting in the correct
position much easier.
I own a treeless saddle and my horse
clearly prefers it over the many treed ones we had. Many riders are
concerned that the treeless saddle might eventually cause back
problems but from all the research that I have done, I have yet to
find this to be a consistent problem, even after years of extensive
use. Most back problems in horses appear to be caused by badly
fitted saddles, treed OR treeless.
For more info on treeless saddles visit
the
Yahoo Treeless Saddle Group.
A
Treeless
Success Story
I decided to get
a treeless trail saddle and sold my Ansur Carlton II saddle
to a client of mine whose horse had developed some considerable
resistance issues with the treed Dressage saddle she was using at
the time. One
of the most obvious resistance problems was not wanting to leave the barn with the
treed Dressage saddle on his back.
Bodywork
did not
reveal any obvious painful areas in his back, which normally would
be expected. He did not flinch upon palpation. However, the
increased resistance he was showing, was clearly related to the treed
saddle. Below is what she shared with me after she had used the
treeless Dressage saddle for a couple of weeks:
Hi Ute,
I wanted to update you on my horse since we have been riding in
the Ansur saddle. He has really changed. Here is a list of the
things that he no longer does:
-
Never
balks when leaving the barn under saddle.
-
No longer
fusses when being saddled or girthed.
-
No longer
refuses to go forward under saddle... I no longer need to
ride with the crop.
-
No more
ear pinning while riding.
-
No more
stumbling at the walk, trot or canter while being ridden.
Not only all
that, but I can feel him lifting his back while I am riding him
at the trot. He is going so much better, I am really thrilled.
He is still quite out of shape, but we are riding 3 times a week
now, so he should start to improve in that are as well.
Lynne
- September 2008
January 2009 update:
Her gelding continues to do so well,
that she's now considering also
buying a treeless Western saddle.
If a horse shows resistance
under the saddle but seems fine with a bareback pad (or treeless
saddle), chances are high that the saddle is the culprit.
Don't
Forget
The Rider!
Correct saddle fit for the
RIDER is also essential
but often overlooked because we put so much emphasis on fitting the
saddle correctly to the horse. Saddle fit for the rider is just as
important to ensure correct body alignment that will allow the rider
to better move with the horse.
The saddle should
naturally support the rider as best as possible so the rider does
not constantly have to work on keeping a correct position. Again,
that can only be counter-productive to correct riding and training.
Check out the following sources for more
information on correct saddle fit, for horse and
rider:
Saddle Fitting
Check for Back Pain and Saddle Fit
The Horse's Pain-Free Back and Saddle-Fit Book
Bits & Other Tack
It is equally important that the bit is fitted to
the horse's oral cavity, Bigger isn't always milder and better. Some
horses have very little room in their mouths and need a smaller
diameter bit. Consult with your equine dentist which bit size would
be most appropriate for your horse.
In addition, some horse prefer certain bit styles
over others. Again, this is probably related mostly to the
conformation of the oral cavity, but can also be related to the
rider's hands. Loose ring snaffles for example transmit more of the
rider's hand movement and some sensitive horses might therefore
prefer a d-ring or eggbutt snaffle instead.
Bits should be mild - harsh bits should be
avoided. It is a fallacy to believe that one could stop or control a
horse by simply using a harsher bit. Only correct training can
achieve that. Cavesons and flashes should also not be over-tightened
when used. The following book is an excellent resource on correctly
selecting and using bits (snaffles or curb/shank):
The Bit and the Reins
Bitless
Consider going bitless. There's
logically no reason why a horse can't
perform correctly without a bit. Horses
learn through pressure and release and
proper riding comes from the seat, not
the bit and the reins. Check out
testimonials of bitless riding
success on Dr.Cook's website and the
Nurtural Horse:
The Bitless Bridle
The Nurtural Horse
Other Tack Considerations
Also keep in mind that some horses react to
certain materials that are used in tack. Some are obvious, others
are not quite so obvious. Neoprene is a good example. Some horse's
can react rather badly to it with serious skin rashes. In other
cases the signs are more subtle.
My horse would always fidget when I
put his neoprene galloping boots on. No amount of slapping or
yelling made him stop. Then I came across some information that neoprene
can overheat the skin of more sensitive horses , or even worse, can
cause damage to the skin.
So I
decided to buy and try some
boots with fleece lining instead. After using them once the
fidgeting completely stopped. He was just trying to communicate to
me that the neoprene boots made him feel uncomfortable. I should
have listened sooner!
He had a similar,
quite obvious reaction, when I used a neoprene girth once to try out
a new saddle. As soon as the girth came off he behaved like he was
itching very badly in the girth area and needed immediate itch
relieve. Always listen to your horse - he/she might just be trying
to tell you something!